Measurement Methods for Pattern Making

The knowledge of growth and development in the shape of the human body is necessary for taking correct measurement. Although, the growth and development of the human body is not the same in all persons, it will help to get a general knowledge. Each individual may have some disproportions somewhere, but overall it helps get the correct measurement for garment construction.

There are two different approaches to the drafting of patterns by measurements. One relies entirely on direct measurements taken on the figure, the other, on various measurements and proportions obtained by calculations from one or two measurements (mostly from bust, sometimes checked from height.

Direct Measurements are used because there is no satisfactory substitution to them, especially in dressmaking. The direct measurements are usually classified under two heads- above the waist measurements and below the waist measurements, which are further classified as vertical measurements and horizontal measurements. Vertical Measurements are commonly known as lengthwise measurements and the horizontal measurements as crosswise or girth measurements or circular measurements.

1.    Above the waist vertical measurements-

a.    Waist length – measure shoulder to waist

b.    Bust length – measure shoulder to bust level

c.    Sleeve length – measure from shoulder point to the desired sleeve length

d.    Neck Depth – nape of the neck (NP) to the desired length towards CF or CB

2.    Above the waist horizontal measurements-

a.    Neck round – measure around the base of the neck

b.    Shoulder width- measure from NP to ShP

c.    Across shoulder- measure shoulder to shoulder, from left to right

d.    Across chest – measure across from shoulder to shoulder, approx. 7cm below base of the throat

e.    Distance between bust points

f.     Back width – across the shoulder blades from armhole to armhole

g.    Chest round- measure around the figure & over the fullest part of the bust/ chest

h.    Waist round – measure around the natural waistline

i.      Sleeve round- measured around the arm, at the desired sleeve length.

3.    Below the waist vertical measurements-

a.    Hip Length- measure down from the waist to the widest part of the hip

b.    Knee length- measure from waist to the knee level

c.    Skirt / pant length- measure from waist to desired length of the garment

4.    Below the waist horizontal measurements-

a.    Hip round- measure around the figure & over the fullest part of the hip

b.    Knee round- measure around the knee

c.    Calf round- measure around the fullest part of the calf

d.    Ankle round- measure around the ankle

Height Measurement Method:

This method is most commonly referred to as the "8 head theory" or method. The human body is divided into 8 equal heads. Height is taken from head to the foot. The 8 heads are:

1.    Head to the chin or nape of the neck

2.    Nape of the neck to bust point or bottom of armscye

3.    From bottom of armscye to navel or hollow of the waist

4.    From navel to the fork

5.    From fork to mid thigh

6.    Mid thigh to small knee

7.    Small knee to lower leg, just above the ankle

8.    Lower leg to ball of the foot

Making use of the above 8 head theory, the following length measurements can be obtained for a grown up, proportionate human body. The main constant in these calculations is the height of the person, from the head to the ball of the foot.

1.    One head = nape to armpit level = 1/8^th height

2.    From armpit to wrist bone = two heads = 1/4^th height

3.    Nape to waist = two heads = 1/4^th height

4.    Elbow to armpit = one head = 1/8^th height

5.    Inside leg = ½ height – 5cms

6.    Fork to knee = ½ inside leg measurement

7.    Knee to small knee = 5 to 6.5 cm.

8.    Small knee to calf = 7.5 to 8.5 cm.

By applying the 8 head theory further, lengths of various garments can be calculated without having to actually measure them on the person. However due to variations / imperfections in body proportions and change in the prevailing fashion these may differ for some individuals.

1.    Full shirt = 4 heads – (2.5 to 5 cm)

2.    Nehru shirt = 4 heads + (10 to 15 cm)

3.    Bushirt = 3 heads + (10 to 12.5 cm)

4.    Nehru Jacket = 2 heads + ( 12 to 20 cm)

5.    Short Coat = 4 heads – (4 to 6.5 cm)

6.    Waist coat = 3 heads + ( 3 to 4 cm)

7.    Trousers = 5 heads + (2.5 to 4 cm)

Girth measurement method or breast proportionate method:

Is a method of calculating the girth wise or circular measurements of the body using the chest measurement as a constant, all other width measurements are derived using the chest measurement as the basis.

Girth measurements for men

Neck round = 1/3^rd chest + (6.25 to 7.5 cm)

Waist round = chest – (10 to 12.5 cm)

Hip round = chest + (2.5 to 5 cm)

Small knee round = 1/3^rd hip round

Knee round = small knee round + (2.5 – 4 cm)

Calf round = approximate equal to knee round

Bottom round / ankle round = calf round – 2.5 cm

 Armscye round = ½ chest – (0.75- 1.25 cm)

Depth of armscye from neck:-

               i.        For chest up to 72cm = 1/4^th chest + 1.5 cm

              ii.        For chest between 72 – 92 cm = 1/4^th chest + 1.25 cm

            iii.        For chest above 92 cm = 1/4^th chest + 0.75 cm

Girth measurements for women:

1.    Neck round = 1/3^rd chest + (5 to 6.5 cm)

2.    Waist round = chest – (12.5 to 18 cm)

3.    Hip round = chest + (5 to 10 cm)

4.    Half shoulder = 1/6^th chest + 4.5 cm

5.    Across chest = 1/8^th chest +5.75 cm

6.    Upper arm round (armscye round) = 1/4^th chest + (5 to 6.5 cm)

7.  Depth of armscye = 1/8^th chest + (5 to 6.5 cm)