Pattern
designing is both a science and an art. A study of the fundamental principles and
methods provides the essential basis of scientific data which every cutter must
possess. Fashions always change, but the principles of garment cutting remain
the same. With the help of these principles, hundreds of new styles and designs
can be created according to the changes in fashion.
The function of a Block or Foundation
pattern is to provide a simple outline of bodice, sleeve or skirt, from which
every kind of style pattern can be developed. It must also serve as a map or a
chart for recording useful information about the proportions, shape and even
posture of a figure.
A block aims at representing on a flat some part of the
figure, and since the figure is three dimensional (3D), the block, in addition
to the information on shape and size, should have details such as darts or
‘ease’, which suggest the 3 dimensions. It is important that the basic
structure of the block is such that any necessary adjustment can be introduced
easily, without upsetting the whole balance of the pattern.
Four different types of bodice blocks that can be
mentioned are:
- Standard Block – is the basic foundation which follows the natural lines of the figure and is little influenced by other considerations. Its main object is to provide a reliable and lasting basis of correct proportion and fit, from which more specialized blocks can be produced when necessary, and by which every type of pattern can be checked.
- Simplified Block – differs from the standard block in that it is produced from a simpler method of drafting. This makes it more suitable where the primary object of drafting is to understand bodice construction, but to have reliable pattern for practical
- Trade Block – is an adaptation of the standard block made to suit various requirements of the wholesale manufacturing trade. The proportions of such a block may follow one of the numerous ‘size charts’ used in the wholesale, or be adapted to fit a special dress stand. It may include details and proportions based on commercial considerations to help in the sale of the garment to a bigger range of figures.
- Tailoring Block – is yet another adaptation of the standard block which introduces a few special features and proportions characteristic of most jacket patterns drafted by tailors. Some of these special points are closely linked with the technique of high-class tailoring, which involves some manipulation of the garment during the making-up to give it its correct final shape.
The various methods of developing
patterns are as below:
1) Drafting - In
the drafting method, patterns are made directly from measurements taken from a
pre-existing garment, an individual or a body form. Using the collected
measurements, the pattern is drawn directly onto paper. This 2D paper pattern
is then cut and placed on the fabric, to cut the pattern piece, which is then
sewn into a 3D garment.
2)
Draping - Draping
is one of the oldest methods used to generate a pattern. In the traditional
draping process, a garment is produced by moulding, cutting and pinning fabric
to a mannequin or an individual. Style lines and constructions details of the
drape are carefully marked and removed. Fabric pieces with the construction and
style details are generated. The fabric pieces are then laid flat over pattern
paper and traced, which is later used to cut the patterns from the actual
garment fabric.
Methods of pattern adaptation or commonly
also known as dart manipulation:
1) Slash
and spread method- In the slash and spread method, as the name
implies the pattern/sloper is slashed or cut on the desired line and as the old
dart or excess is closed, the pattern itself spreads on the new position, to
create the new design. It is a pattern drafting technique that involves drawing
a slash line on a pattern piece, cutting along the line, and then spreading the
pattern sections apart; alternatively, it may be used to overlap pattern
sections.
2)
Pivoting
method- One of the basic flat
patterning techniques involves pivoting the bust dart around the bust apex. The
dart can be moved from one location to another, as long as it radiates from the
bust apex. It is essentially a flat pattern making technique that involves
tracing part of a pattern piece, then holding a pivot point in place and
rotating the pattern to a new position. Once in the new position, the rest of
the pattern piece is traced.
Pattern Making Terminology
 |
| Fabric Grain Arrows |
 |
| Basic Bodice Block |
- Centre Front (CF) – passes through the centre of the front of the human body
- Centre Back (CB)- passes through the centre of the back of the human body
- Centre Front Neck (CF/N)- will find it exactly at the centre of the front neck
- Neck Point (NP) – will be a point at side of the neck
- Shoulder Point (ShP) – is the tip of the shoulder, towards the arm
- Underarm Point (UP)- exactly centre of under arm
- Side seam (SS)- starts at the centre of the underarm (UP) through the side of the bodice
- Side Seam Waist (SS/W)- exactly at the waist level on the side seam line
- Centre Front Waist (CF/W)- found at the waist level on the centre front line
- Waist line- the line of demarcation between the upper and lower portions of a garment
- Underarm line/ chest level/ bust level- part of the bodice (line) passing over the fullest part of the bust/ chest
- Across Chest- across from armhole to armhole, at approx. 7cm below the base of the throat
- Grade – to enlarge or shrink a current pattern
- Grain line- centre of garment running normally from top to bottom of piece
- Straight grain- the vertical grain of the fabric
- Cross grain- grain running from selvage to selvage
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| Patter making tools |
- Bias grain- the diagonal of the fabric and your grain line is lined up with it
- Seam allowance- narrow width between the seam line and the raw edge of the fabric.
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