Seam Finishes

Woven fabrics ravel, or un-weave, on cut edges. 

The extent of this ravelling varies depending on the nature of the fabric and the grain of the cut edge. Because woven fabrics have this property, some kind of seam finish is necessary to provide added durability and increase the wearer's comfort. A seam finish is applied to the seam’s raw edges to keep the fabric from ravelling and to make the seam look neat and clean. A good seam finish not only adds longevity to a garment, it adds professionalism.

The purpose of a seam finish is to prevent fraying and maintain the stability of the seam through wearing and laundering the item. The type of seam finish you choose will depend on the fabric, the strength & type of the seam and the visual appeal desired. A fabric prone to fraying, such as a loosely woven fabric, will require more sewing in the seam finish than a tightly woven fabric that does not fray.

Although seam finishes are inside the garment there are times where the seam finish will be seen. Think of an unlined jacket that is worn open in the front. Many times the inside of that type jacket is seen. A seam finish in an unlined jacket would need to appear finished and have visual appeal more than the seam in a lined jacket.

Pinked Finish

a)   Pinked Finish

Cut along edge of seam allowance with pinking shears. For best results, do not fully open shears nor close all the way to the points. If fabric is crisp and lightweight, it is possible to trim two edges at once, before pressing seam open. Otherwise do one edge at a time. Pinking is attractive, but will not of itself present ravelling. (fig a)

b)   Stitched & Pinked Finish

Using a short stitch, place a line of stitching ¼” from edge of seam allowance, then pink edge. This finish can be used where pinking is desired, and it will minimise ravelling. (fig b)

Turned Down & Stitched

This seam finish is also known as clean-finished. Turn under edge of seam allowance 1/8” (¼” if fabric ravels easily); press. Stitch along edge of fold. It may be helpful, on difficult fabrics or curved edges, to place a row of stitching at the 1/8” or ¼” fold-line to help turn edge under. This is a neat, tailored finish for light – to medium – weight fabrics, and is suitable for an unlined jacket.

Bound Edge Seam

a)  Bias Bound

Trim notches from seam edge; wrap double-fold bias around it, with wider side of tape underneath. (Use packaged tape, or cut own from lining or underlining fabric.) Stitch close to edge of top fold, catching underneath fold in stitching. Bias binding is especially good for finishing seams in an unlined jacket or coat.

     b)   Net Bound

Cut 1/2” wide strips of nylon net or tulle; fold in half lengthwise, slightly off centre. Trim notches from seam edge and wrap net around edge with wider half underneath. From top, edge-stitch narrow half of binding, catching wider half underneath in the stitching. This is an inconspicuous and appropriate finish for delicate fabrics, such as velvet or chiffon.

Hong Kong Seam

An alternative to the bias-bound finish, this is especially suitable for heavy fabrics. Proceed as follows:

Cut ½” wide bias strip from a lightweight material that matches garment. Or, use single- or double-fold bias tape and press it open.

With right sides together, stitch bias strip to seam allowance ¼” from edge. Turn bias over edge to the underside and press. From the right side, stitch in the crevice of the first stitching. Trim unfinished edge of bias.

Overedge Seam Finish

      a)   Hand-overcast

Using single thread, make overcast stitches at edge of each seam allowance slightly more than 1/8” in depth and spaced ¼” apart. Do not pull thread too tight. Use this method when a machine finish is impractical or a hand finish is preferred.

      b)   Machine Overlock Finish

This finish is commonly called serging and is given using a specialised machine called the serger or the overlock machine. This machine cuts the edge of the fabric to neaten it and then multi-thread stitches are made covering the edge of the seam, thus preventing the fabric from ravelling. 

Zigzagged Finish

Set stitch for medium width and short (about 15) length. Then stitch near, but not on, the edge of seam allowance. Trim close to stitching. This is one of the quickest and most effective ways to finish a fabric that ravels. It can be used for a knit, but special care must be taken not to stretch the seam edge, or it will ripple