Embroidery - the luxurious art of needlecraft (part 2- Basic Stitches)

The Basic Hand Embroidery Stitches

1. Back Stitch - 
   
   Bring the thread through on the stitch line and then take a small backward stitch through the fabric. Bring the needle through again a little in front of the first stitch, then take another stitch, inserting the needle at the point where it first came through. 
2. Running Stitch - 
   
   Pass the needle in and out of the fabric, making the surface stitches of equal length. The stitches on the underside should also be of equal length, but half the size or less than the upper stitches. 
3. Double Running Stitch -
   
   The Double Running Stitch is worked in two passes of running stitch, with the second pass filling the gaps made in the first pass.
4. Stem Stitch -
   
   Work from left to right, taking regular small stitches along the line of the design. The thread always emerges on the left side of the previous stitch. This stitch is used for flower stems, outlines, etc. It can also be worked as a filling stitch if worked closely together within a shape until it is completely filled.
5. Herringbone Stitch -
   
    Bring the thread out on the lower line at the left side (A) and insert on the upper line a little to the right (B), taking a small stitch to the left (C). Next insert the needle on the lower line a little to the right (D) and take a small stitch to the left (E). Repeat, making sure that the stitches are of equal size and evenly spaced.
6. Chain Stitch - 
   
   Bring the thread up at the top of the line and hold it down with the left thumb. Insert the needle where it last emerged and bring the point out a short distance away. Pull the thread through, keeping the working thread under the needle point. 
7. Lazy Daisy Stitch -
   
   Bring the thread through at A and, holding the thread down with the thumb, as shown, insert the needle again just a single thread away. Still holding the thread, bring the needle through at B. Pull the thread through gently to form a small loop, then insert the needle at C to form a small tying stitch over the loop.
8. Couching -
   
   Lay down the thread to be couched, and with another thread catch it down with small stitches worked over the top.
9. Buttonhole Stitch - 
   
   Bring the thread out on the lower line, insert the needle in position in the upper line and take a straight downward stitch, keeping the working thread under the point of the needle. Pull up the stitch to form a loop and repeat. 
10. Cross Stitch - 
    
    Bring the needle through on the lower right and take it through to the back one block up and one block to the left, bringing it through to the front again one block down to form a half cross. Continue in this way to the end of the row, then complete the upper section of the cross. Cross stitch can be worked from right to left, as shown, or from left to right, but it is important that the upper half of each cross lies in one direction. 
11. Fly Stitch -
    
    Bring the thread through at the top left. Hold it down with the left thumb and insert the needle to the right on the same level, a little distance from where the thread first emerged. Take a small stitch downwards to the centre with the thread below the needle. Pull through and insert the needle below the thread, as shown, to hold it in place. Bring the needle up again in position to work the next stitch.
12. Seeding -
    
    This filling stitch is made up of small straight stitches of equal length placed at random over the surface.
13. Basic Eyelet Stitch -  
    
    also knows as a star stitch or Algerian eye can be worked singly, in rows, or clustered together as a filling.
14. Satin Stitch -
    
    Work straight stitches closely together across the shape, as shown. Take care to keep the edge even, and if you are following an outline marked on the fabric, take your stitches to the outside of the line so that the marked line does not show.
15. Satin Padded -
    
    Padded Satin Stitch is worked in the same manner as basic, flat satin stitch, but is worked over a padding of stitches to give the area a raised, dimensional appearance. This stitch can also be worked over a padding of fusible interfacing or felt cut to shape and tacked in place.
16. Long and Short Stitch -
    
    The stitches in the first row are alternately long and short, and closely follow the shape of the outline. In the following rows, the stitches are even in size and worked to achieve a smooth appearance.
17. French Knots -
    
    Bring the thread out at the required position, hold the thread down where it emerges with the left thumb and encircle the thread twice with the needle (see A). Still holding the thread firmly with your thumb, twist the needle back to the starting point and insert it close to where the thread first emerged (not in the exact place or it will simply pull back through). Pull the needle through to the back, leaving a small knot on the surface, as shown, or pass on to the position of the next stitch as at B. 
18. Bullion Knot -
    
    Make a back stitch, the length of the bullion knot required. Bring the needle out where it first entered the fabric, but do not bring it out all the way. Twist the working thread round the needle point, as many times as is necessary to equal the length of the back stitch. Holding the left thumb on the coiled thread, turn the needle back to where it was inserted (see arrow) and insert it in the same place. Pull the thread through until the bullion knot lies flat. 
19. Cretan Stitch -
    
    Bring the needle through to the right of the centre, then, with the needle pointing inwards, insert the needle onto the design line at the left, bringing it out once more to the left of centre, keeping the thread under the point of the needle, as shown. Insert the needle on the design line at the right, bringing it up again just to the right of the centre. Continue until the area is filled. 
20. Chevron Stitch -  
    
    is a surface embroidery stitch worked using long diagonal    stitches topped with a horizontal cap stitch. This stitch can be used in straight rows and bands. It can also be stitches along a curved edge if guide lines are carefully marked on the fabric.
21. Feather Stitch -  
    
    
    
    is light and airy. These two versions of the stitch are worked similarly; creating an open line of embroidery stitching that can be used for borders, around shapes, or to attach appliques.
22. Double Feather Stitch -
    
    In this, stitches are worked in left and right groups, forming a more intricate - and wider - band of stitching. Use this stitch for bands and rows.